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WMR - May 2010
Features
Citizen
The Fusion of Technology and Beauty
A quarter century has passed since Citizen Watch Company Limited began exhibiting at BASELWORLD. At BASELWORLD 2010, the products that CITIZEN showed enhanced its reputation worldwide. Its product policy is “The Fusion of Technology and Beauty,” and the Eco-Drive models that incorporate advanced technology in truly beautiful designs now account for 80% of total sales.
Eco-Drive constantly keeps on running anytime and anywhere, as long as there is light. Since battery changes are never required, Eco-Drive watches also meet the now-universal demand for environmentally friendly products. CITIZEN has had the foresight to commercialise this technology 35 years ago and the commitment to develop it to this level. Citizen was a pioneer in the use of light as a power source and also the first to introduce high quality all metal cases for radio controlled watches.
Eco-Drive global radio controlled watch featuring world time is able to receive standard time radio waves transmitted in Germany, the United States, and Japan. By choosing the local area, the watch automatically captures transmissions from the nearest station. A radio-controlled watch is able to always show accurate time because it contains a system that receives a standard time radio wave (standard time code). The radio controlled is the ultimate companion for jetsetters and frequent flyers. Powered by Citizen Eco-Drive technology, it recharges continuously so you never need to change a battery.
Tsuneo Nagai, President and CEO, Citizen Watch Co., Ltd., said, “The year 2010 is the 80th anniversary of the founding of Citizen Watch Co., Ltd. It is also a historic year in which Eco-Drive takes a new step forward. Now CITIZEN is ready to raise the bar.” He added, “Last year at BASELWORLD, we presented the film “INFINITY,” depicting CITIZEN’s world of Eco-Drive, and showcased concept models that demonstrated our continuing dedication to craftsmanship and design. That, however, was only a glimpse of the promising future we envision. This year, at BASELWORLD 2010, we present a new film, “CIRCLE,” and display concept models incorporating our latest initiatives. Our exhibits will demonstrate the unlimited potential of both CITIZEN and Eco-Drive.”
For the concept line-up at BASELWORLD 2010, Citizen has taken the Eco-Drive to a whole new level to realize its dream. Having overcome numerous technological hurdles, it launched Eco-Drive DOME, one of the concept models in 2009, as the new production models. The concept models, Eco-Drive LOOP and Eco-Drive EYES, continue the theme with new proposals for watch designs. It also presented a film, “CIRCLE,” which projects the flow of time through gradations of light. The CITIZEN booth clearly demonstrates that Eco-Drive is more than a technological breakthrough. It is the design for the future.
Hirsch
Performance commitment and assurance of eternal style
This family-run company remains true to its traditions and concentrates exclusively on the working of leather and similar materials into high-quality bracelets for watches. For decades, HIRSCH continues with this tradition into the future, committing itself to the constant development of bracelets in terms of their technology, design and presentation.
Watch Market review group’s Managing Editor Sunil Karer undertook for a memorable tour of the Klagenfurt manufactory of HIRSCH on May 4, 2010. Charming Birgit Lassnig was his guide for the tour and she gave him lots of insights into the world of straps and bracelets. During March to November 2009, there were 11 guided tours in the HIRSCH manufactory, where they welcomed visitors from Austria, Germany and the UK. More than 200 jewellers and watch retailers from over 90 companies used the opportunity to get a picture of bracelet manufacturing from start to finish. And Karer was one of the lucky ones to get a once-in-a-lifetime experience that changed the way he looked at his watch bracelet.
Incidentally, Klagenfurt is mainly situated on depositions from the later ice age in an area, where once the glacier of the River Drau was, which then filled a wide area around the city. It was granted the Gabbrief (deed of donation) by Emperor Maximilian in 1518 and the city became the possession of the country Gentry. It became autonomous only in 1850 and in 2005, it celebrated 85 years since the Carinthian Abwehrkampf (military resistance against Yugoslav territorial claims), 75 years of city partnership with Weisbaden and 60 years since the end of the World War II. Its path towards becoming a city of knowledge began in the 1950s and it is the only European city to have won the prestigious Europa-Nostra award thrice for its efforts to renovate and maintain cultural and historic heritage.
At HIRSCH, they do not speak of watch bracelets, but of bracelets for watches. Because a bracelet means much more. Leaving aside its function as a means of attaching a watch, the bracelet has performed the most varied tasks in people’s lives since the very beginning of mankind: The bracelet, carried as silver rings, was used as a form of currency; The bracelet served as a shield on the wrist of hunters and warriors; Bracelets were frequently used to indicate the rank of their wearers.
The initial impressions that came to Sunil Karer’s mind was that the manufactory is extremely impressive. Brigit called it a manufactory rather than production because it has a lot - 80% manual work. And secondly, making a strap or bracelet is a lot of hard work and effort. The high quality products are eco friendly. HIRSCH is concerned with external quality as well as internal comfort. HIRSCH quality fulfils many physical requirements such as special tensile strength, softness, perspiration resistance, colour retention and water resistance thus emphasising the durability in wear that customers demand of a watch bracelet.
Karer was transported back in time to the era of Robert HIRSCH’s grandfather Hans HIRSCH’s guiding principle when he founded the company - “Watch and hand safely connected – with a HIRSCH watch bracelet – carefully selected”. And that was 65 years ago. At that time the fixing of the watch on the wrist took centrestage in quality considerations. Back then it was a matter of fact that someone had only one watch for his entire life. Therefore it was important to fasten this mysterious instrument which is able to measure the time, safely onto the body. Out of these modest beginnings a company has evolved over the decades which dedicates all its thoughts and endeavours to quality and the functionality of the bracelet for watches. Grounded on the credo that there is nothing that cannot be made better, HIRSCH has promoted many fundamental innovations in the field of watch-bracelet creation. He even worked on one weekend in order to develop the special joining of the upper material and the lining that become part of folklore.
HIRSCH innovations extend from the invention of the Rembording technology (seamless joining of the upper material and the lining) to the development of a method for making waterproof leather to the development of the only clinically tested system for preventing leather allergies. The driving force behind all innovations is the desire to ensure longevity, comfort in wear and aesthetic appeal in all situations in which a watch is worn.
The “Rembordé technology” – the seamless bonding of lining leather and upper leather – enabling the creation of a premium quality, valuable product is certainly a vital contribution. In the 65 years of the company’s existence, HIRSCH has always strived to overcome any possible contradictions arising in connection with bracelets for watches.
One of these contradictions was and still is that leather is not water-resistant. HIRSCH already strongly disagreed with this assumption in the 70’s. Through intensive research and development work HIRSCH succeeded in the development of the first water-resistant leather bracelet. This development has become an essential part of the HIRSCH collection and even reaches into the field of alligator materials. Another contradiction which HIRSCH has successfully overcome is that skin-sensitive and allergic people cannot wear leather. In order to enable the wearing of a leather bracelet as a gorgeous accessory HIRSCH has developed genuine No-Allergy bracelets.
Long before the watch industry recognized the significance of the material known as Caoutchouc, HIRSCH started working with it. 30 years of experience with Caoutchouc has enabled HIRSCH to develop an especially durable, skin friendly and hard wearing caoutchouc-mixture which is perfectly suited to the needs of the watch-wearer. All these innovations would never have gained importance for consumers and our partners if HIRSCH had not developed proper marketing and sales instruments at the same time. In the field of sales support for bracelets for watches, the Company today is as innovative as with the HIRSCH core-product. It actively carries out trend-research and constantly strives to draw attention to our product.
Certainly the most important development in recent years was our new display-system “Sette”; the first interactive display-system which allows the consumer to interact and independently preselect the proper bracelet for his watch. In addition to, as well as being customer-friendly, the “Sette” display system acts convincingly as an important profit-maker, with an increase in turnover of far more than 20% being achieved in comparison to other systems. Now the saying is “there is nothing, that cannot be done even better“ is a fundamental conviction and part of our HIRSCH’s bracelet culture. The company cultivates this idea and will therefore continue to challenge and overcome contradictions regarding bracelets for watches.
As Robert HIRSCH says, “After 65 years of successful bracelet history my grandfather`s guiding principle: “Watch and hand safely connected – with a HIRSCH watch bracelet – carefully selected” is still up to date and with all further developments in mind we can now proudly say “watch and hand intelligently connect – with a HIRSCH bracelet – carefully selected.”
Karer started the tour with the raw material, then the lining leather (contact with human skin), technology and processes. Every animal strap is certificate from wild association. They are all marked. They come from the farms. (An annually defined amount of eggs gets collected from the natural habitats, a certain percentage – also specified by the state has to be given back to nature, thus assuring the natural wildlife stock. Also, in the entire manufactory, there is no wastage. Whatever is left from the skins does not get thrown away. It is numbered and kept in stock. If a customer’s loop breaks down, then HIRSCH can remake the same from the same material and send it back to customer. The manufactory uses handiwork, robot stitching and laser technology, etc.
The company has procured some of the most precious and premium materials. It doesn’t use all the raw materials but showcases everything to tell discerning customers what leather is all about. The most luxurious material one can think of is the alligator. The alligators are from the farms, which involve controlled purchasing and selling of the material. It underlies the Convention International Trading of Endangered Species (CITES). These alligators come from Louisiana, United States and represent the best quality available on the market. They have the CITES tag attached to all the skins with a number code. It stays with the material till the bracelet is finished. The HIRSCH team can trace back every single skin with every single bracelet. There is a variation of surface structure scales in the belly, sides, head, tail and back.
The good usable portion is around 27 cms, which includes part of the tail and the head. The usage of the rectangular and circular scales depends on what the customer wants. The small circular ones are more elegant while the big rectangular ones are considered more macho. The HIRSCH team gets the material tanned and polished according to their specifications. It has a multitude of different colour shades. A two-tone effect of the skin is achieved when the material gets brushed – it comes then with a matt shine on top of the scale and a somewhat darker shade in the valley dividing the single scales from each other. The difference between the alligator and crocodile is that one can only take the side parts (the so-called flancs) of the crocodile because only these parts are right in size, flexible and soft. You can make use of the other portion of the crocodile skin in other industries. The crocodile comes from South America and Africa. HIRSCH does fashion forecasting two years prior to what trends will come. The company’s tannery partners are in the fashion design countries such as Italy and France. In cooperation with them HIRSCH has developed the world`s first 100 metre water resistant alligator material, which can be used on sport chronographs for all kinds of water-activities. The alligator skin could generate raw material for 6 to 9 bracelets.
Two different types of snake skins were shown in the leather warehouse – a python and a water-snake. The python shown is 2.5 m in length, but there are even pythons with a lengths of 4m and even more. If you touch the surface of the snakes, you see lots of scales. In processing, you have to strike a balance between the nativeness of the material and at the same time protect it against external influences which might harm the material. According to the latest fashion trends, HIRSCH has lilacs, pinks, gold dust and metallic colours. Everything is possible. The skin of the Indonesian watersnake, called
Acqualino, was beautiful and displayed a two tone shine and matt effect that fits perfectly for elegant watches. If you compare the quality, the python is more delicate. The water snake is comparable to the lizard skin. The lizard is cut at the belly where it has rectangular scales. The cutting always takes in symmetrical patterns across equivalent lengths. If someone has a vintage watch, then they would go for traditional colours such as browns and blacks. HIRSCH also had something that looks similar to alligator skin but not as expensive. It has discovered several alternatives to keep the price under control. One can take evenly structured calf leather and give it the structure of a genuine alligator by making use of embossing. In order to achieve a perfect look-alike, one has to take all the impurities from the genuine skin otherwise it will not look natural. It can only be perfect if it is imperfect.
Alligator straps cost from Euro 89 to 159 for the Genuine Alligator 100m water resistant.
Ostrich skin is another option – its skin is characterized by a specific dot-structure and is available in various colours. One has to be very careful cutting this precious material in order Sharkskin was also shown. It had been popular in the 80s-90s, but the demand has declined over the years. Fish such as salmon also yield good raw material. The lining leather of a bracelet has to match with the human skin. The most frequently used types of lining leather are the so-called Oysterglove and Oysterglove Supersoft. In the production of the variant Oysterglove Supersoft an additional treatment by the name of “milling” is involved which softens the material and make it more flexible.
HIRSCH develops and manufactures the most advanced, highly detailed and finest bracelets in the world. The aim of each development is to ensure the longevity, wearer comfort and aesthetics of the bracelet whenever the consumer is wearing it. Its knowledge of and feeling for bracelets for watches allows HIRSCH to support the development of the watch-making industry and the specialist watch trade as a partner and an expert. HIRSCH embodies a bracelet culture which has been carefully passed down to generations.
At Baselworld 2010, HIRSCH celebrated a jubilee - 245 years HIRSCH leather craftsmanship and 65 years HIRSCH the bracelet! It invited customers to join it on a walkabout through the success story of bracelet development by HIRSCH.
Right at the beginning, you find the Rembordé technology, an invention going back to grandfather Hans HIRSCH - the seamless fusion of upper- and lining-leather protecting the bracelet from external influences, thus saving the high quality throughout its entire lifetime.
The present is marked by latest technologies such as the HIRSCH Premium Caoutchouc, fabricated according to a HIRSCH-specific recipe in order to produce highly functional, water-tight and especially durable bracelets with the highest possible wearing comfort which are also available in colours.
The latest HIRSCH alligator-bracelets, made from premium Louisiana alligators which you can now also wear for swimming without hesitation, because of the use of a sophisticated manufacturing process, are further examples of its competence in the fields of material and manufacturing.
HIRSCH is the only manufacturer of watch bracelets to grant an extended warranty of one year for leather watch bracelets. Its precise processing technology, many years of production knowhow, specific selection of materials suitable for bracelets and love for handicraft in production that allows it to grant the customer such a valuable guarantee!
Candy Colour Chic
This spring is going to be irresistibly sweet! Candy Colour Chic – is the name of one of the most likeable trends for the coming spring and summer which even weight-conscious fashionistas can seize on! Who can resist this “sweet” seduction? The colours curacao, berry, peach and vanilla represent the trend-colours for the first half of 2010. These candy colours complement last year`s loud neon- colours. The HIRSCH bracelet collection 2010 becomes once again a trend- setter with these colour highlights. Fashion-watches in particular will gleam in an irresistably fashion-conscious light with HIRSCH Candy Colour Chic.
HIRSCH 100 m Water-Resistant
Does leather tolerate water? HIRSCH bracelets are generally water-resistant and dry more quickly than conventional bracelets, without any loss of physical and aesthetic quality, suppleness and appearance. HIRSCH bracelets are far from being afraid of water! A leather watch bracelet that can be safely washed with soap still remains supple and beautiful, that can be worn by divers at depths of 100m in the sea and will still be dry in a matter of minutes – all this is possible with a products of the HIRSCH 100 m Water-Resistant range! Models of the HIRSCH 100 m Water-Resistant series are the first bracelets on the market that are as water-resistant as the watches themselves, because upper and lining leather are connected down to the fibre by means of the HIRSCH “Rembordé” technology without any joints. The padding material that gives the bracelet its three-dimensional form is also water-resistant.100 m Water-Resistant bracelets made by HIRSCH will of course get wet, just like any other leather. They absorb less water, however, and dry considerably faster than traditionally tanned leather. What is most important is that HIRSCH products will retain their quality, shape, suppleness, colour and hence their aesthetic appeal. Brace yourself for the Viscount Alligator, Grand Duke and Runner.
No Allergy System
Hirsch took up the development of the No Allergy coating for leather watch bracelets in the framework of a research project with competent medical institution, the first Viennese University Clinic for Dermatology. Measured by the medical criteria, the No Allergy coating used by Hirsch can prevent nearly 100% of all allergies that could be triggered by wearing leather watch bracelets. Hirsch has already begun to make all metal parts offered by it nickel free long before the directive on the use of nickel containing metals was passed.
Water-resistant alligator bracelets
HIRSCH exclusively offers the world`s first alligator bracelet that is as water-resistant as the watch itself! The alligator-leather shows a special naturalness and liveliness, that hardly absorb any humidity and dries within a few minutes.
A milestone in the history of bracelet development!
HIRSCH Premium Caoutchouc
Caoutchouc bracelets enjoy great popularity within the entire watch-industry and especially in the Haute Gamme sector. No surprise: this amazingly versatile material is widely used because of its ideal flexibility as well as its extreme durability and water-resistance. HIRSCH has a recorded history of dealing with leather since 1765. However, since the late 60’s, ‘rubber’ has also increased in importance for HIRSCH. In that field we must mention the development of the HIRSCH Skinline technology which resulted from the development of a HIRSCH-particular thermoplastic compound. This plastic material was given the name “Marcchon” – a HIRSCH specific caoutchouc-mixture which is abrasion-resistant and could be produced in a wide variety of colours. In the 1980’s HIRSCH took up production of the HIRSCH Skinline bracelets and was very successful with them. More than 80 million pieces of these successful products were produced in Klagenfurt.The material caoutchouc has been a fundamental part of the HIRSCH offering since then. HIRSCH was therefore its first supplier to the luxury watch-industry. The constant development of our own caoutchouc-mixture today enables HIRSCH to present highly complex products made from caoutchouc – even in combination with other materials. HIRSCH Premium Caoutchouc possesses specific technical characteristics, which guarantee a significantly longer lifetime and higher wearing-comfort in comparison to conventional synthetic bracelets.
Accent
Classic sporty design with loving attention top detail for leisure sportspeople and professionals.
Extreme
Modern extravagant styling functional in use and ideal for active sporting moments.
Classic
In life there are occasions and moments which are associated with the gift of a special watch, and which should be remembered. The bracelets in the Classic line match the origins of the bracelet. The high-quality, soft leather used in the manufacture of the bracelets in this line will preserve the memory of special moments.
London
Precious Louisiana alligator skin, hand sorted and crafted with a great deal of detail can be seen in the layer of this contrasting edge finish applied by hand or buckle. It is supple, water and sweat proof and has the Hirsch Oysterglove Supersoft lining, which ensures optimum wearing comfort. The semi-matte brush finish creates the gentle two-tone effect that adds the final touch of elegance to this grand bracelet.
Regent
The unmistakable small roundish scales give away the noble origin of this bracelet…the best alligator flanc leather. The superb finish leaves no doubt is the ruling regent amongst bracelets. Hirsch Reborde technology, waterproof and sweat proof lining leather and durable nickel free stainless steel buckle speak volumes of a bracelet of timeliness beauty.
Duke No Allergy
One of the most popular bracelets in the world is now available for people with sensitive skin. Noble Italian calf leather with perfect all alligator embossing on the outside, pleasantly smooth lining leather with Hirsch No Allergy coating on the inside. In addition a nickel free Hirsch stainless steel buckle - the ideal wellness bracelet for every skin type.
Umbria
Classic calf leather bracelet, crafted to traditional perfection. The fine, delicate grain with discreet silky shine adds a touch of understatement to this bracelet.
Active
Time plays an important role in sport. To ensure that top sportsmen and women do not lose any time, HIRSCH has developed the bracelets in the Active line for moments of particular pressure. HIRSCH works leather and other particularly resistant materials into the bracelets in the Active line, offering control and security, intelligence and style in moments of particular pressure.
Viscount Alligator
Viscount is the alligator bracelet in the new range. It has a generous padding in a particularly powerful sporty design. And now it is 100m water resistant.
Pure
Puristic bracelet are much more than what meets the eye! With its distinct, straight shapes and high quality Hirsch rubber, the high tech material for functional bracelets of the luxury watch industry is extremely durable and absolutely waterproof. It boasts a longer lifespan, noticeably higher wearing comfort and higher resistance to external influences than traditional bracelets. It is for those who enjoy simplicity of form and the highest functionality.
Catwalk
HIRSCH has designed the bracelets in the Catwalk line for those with the courage to embrace the unusual. These are not short-lived trends, tricks with colors or experiments with materials: this HIRSCH line contains style-conscious yet totally extravagant bracelets. Unusual materials, special details and surprising designs allow their wearers to make a extravagant statement in both special and everyday situations.
Pythea
Python embossed leather in elegant, shiny patent leather finish. With Pythea, glamourous women can make a fashion statement. It follows the python embossed trend in the world of fashion accessories. The graceful flat body with the tightly arranged scales caresses the wrist and together with the nickel free Catwalk buckle, it underlines the feminine character of the bracelet with exotic beauty.
Elegance
The bracelets in the Elegance line offer the wearer the assurance of a stylish and elegant decision to emphasize significant occasions. They are characterized both by their special elegance and the courage to embrace the unusual. The workmanship of luxurious materials, the unusual details, the noble range of colors and the buckle providing the highest level of wearer comfort make the bracelet a valuable accessory, providing assured styling when attending an opera ball, a festival or in the context of an unusual invitation.
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