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WMR - March 2010

Geneva Time Exhibition

The first trends

1The first edition of the Geneva Time Exhibition closed its doors this evening after welcoming nearly 5500 visitors. That impressive figure more than justifies the addition of this exciting new fair to the Swiss watchmaking calendar!

The first Independent Swiss Watchmakers' Fair showcased 38 exhibiting brands* who, during a week crammed with surprises and stylish events, enchanted a high-quality visiting public composed of watch sector professionals, leading collectors and connoisseurs of fine timepieces.

2GTE also enjoyed extensive coverage in the international media: over 500 journalists from every continent. There was much to admire among the unique, innovative timepieces on display, showcasing watchmaking of the highest craftsmanship and technical accomplishment – with designs not just by famous brands, but also by youthful, little-known yet marvellously gifted watchmakers who had no hesitation in choosing the Fair to make their official debut in the watchmaking world.

3With its warm yet professional welcome, refined display areas designed with top-quality materials, and a luxurious, relaxing lounge-bar, GTE embodied the prestige of an international exhibition platform, providing exhibitors and visitors with a glamorous yet discreet atmosphere. This first Independent Watchmakers' Fair had all the elements needed for a successful international luxury fair.

Initial indications from GTE's 38 exhibitors reveal that an encouraging number of orders were received during the Fair – further evidence of the veritable recovery to the watchmaking sector that has become apparent over the last few weeks.

Together with the event's official partners – Sotheby’s, BMW, Laurent Perrier and Arasa Morelli – the founders of Time Exhibitions were delighted with the enthusiastic response to this inaugural edition of GTE. The Fair's success has reinforced their plans not just to repeat the GTE experience in 2011 – but also to export their all-in fairs concept abroad.

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ANTOINE PREZIUSO

Antoine Preziuso has been an independent watch designer since 1980, when he ranked first in his year at the Ecole d’Horlogerie in Geneva. He is highly regarded in the world of Haute Horlogerie, and launched his own brand in 1996. The philosophy of Antoine Preziuso Genève revolves around three core values: independence and creativity fired by passion. His watches enjoy total creative and commercial freedom, and display unfettered diversity, exploiting daring aesthetics, new techniques, and rare materials like meteorite. The brand’s top-of-the-range positioning is reflected in its limited production and total control over quality. Clients can be sure of totally personal service – from committed enthusiasts, for committed enthusiasts.


Aspen

Welcome to Aspen, made in Switzerland. Aspen is internationally known for its natural beauty, perfect slopes, and the glamorous appeal of its famous visitors. Aspen Jewelry and Watches, has been granted the worldwide license to use the Aspen name for the collections it is introducing, the first being the limited edition of the first watch: Aspen One. The heavy and precious Swiss-made timepiece offered in four color combinations of 18 kt white or rosé gold, carries unique features that communicate elements specific to Aspen. A specially-designed compass shows you where you are once on top of Aspen Mountain, and the watch tells you when it is time to change your ski-strap to your après-ski strap (done in a few seconds with a technique similar to removing a ski from a boot) at four o’clock.

A new design titled The Black Piste has been added to the Aspen One timepiece collection. This new model has already been dubbed “The Understatement Watch.”

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ATELIERS DEMONACO

Ateliers deMonaco is a new premium watch manufacturer based in Monaco. The brand develops a Nouvelle Horlogerie by creating iconic timepieces that are derived from the passion to challenge existing conventions

A masterpiece with patented XP 1 minute Tourbillon and Automatic bi-directional winding with Curved chamfered and hand guilloche decoration on bridges. It has a Hand engraved bi-colored solid gold 18K rotor with a Custom-made hand engraving on  the Tourbillon cage and an exquisite  Sapphire Tourbillon bridge. It is water resistant upto 3 ATM and has a Titanium-tinted dial with deep sunray pattern engraving on base. With  ATELIERS DEMONACO personalized hand stitched alligator strap and 18K gold folding buckle, this watch is limited to 18 pieces.



BADOLLET

The Badollet philosophy combines luxury, human values and respect for watchmaking tradition. Just like the work of the Badollet dynasty, the latest Badollet timepieces look both to the roots of watchmaking and the latest technology in expressing the neo-classical spirit for which the brand is famed.

Presented here with an openworked opaline dial set with 72 diamonds and 12 sapphires, the Observatoire 1872 Minute Repeater, This understated and elegant Instrument of Time features a round 44 mm-diameter case with gentle shapes in 18-carat gold. Water-resistant to 30 metres, it is enhanced by a glareproofed sapphire crystal glass and case-back.

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CABESTAN

The Cabestan Winch Tourbillon Vertical, designed in collaboration with Master Watchmaker Eric Coudray, explores a new dimension of audacious, ultra-exclusive haute horlogerie, where watches break free from traditional watchmaking codes to become works of mechanical art, generating an intense emotion reserved for aesthetes and true connoisseurs of wonderful mechanisms… the ultimate in luxury! It represents a new dimension in luxury watches where timepieces become works of art, breaking with the traditions and norms of watchmaking as we know it. The concept revolves around the capstan : a mechanical device comprised of a large drum with a vertical axis and a lever, the winch, to make it function. This is combined with a chain and fusée, a vertical tourbillon and fascinating vertical wheels, all extremely visible beneath the twin thermoformed crystals. The result is a timepiece that combines a retro-futuristic design, a movement that is excitingly visible and a series of technological exploits that make it one of the most accurate mechanical watches in the world.



JEAN-MAIRET & GILLMAN

“Past…Present… Future…Come Magically Together…“ The Jean-Mairet&Gillman brand, founded in 1999, draws its references for timepieces and its traditional craftsmanship from a long line of watchmakers. It was César Jean-Mairet’s dream to combine his passion for watches with a family tradition of watchmaking, mechanics and science. The result is an exclusive collection of timepieces that pays homage to heritage and classicism.

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LADOIRE GENEVE

Ladoire Genève is a forerunner among makers of luxury, avant-garde Swiss timepieces with complications. Under the Helvet Mechanic label, the brand has created RGT (Roller Guardian Time), an extraordinary timepiece, with its micro-rotor automatic winding caliber made by Ladoire Genève itself. ROLLER GUARDIAN TIME (RGT) is the first timepiece created by Ladoire. A piece of enigmatic beauty that resembles no other existing timepiece. Some call this creation the «UFO» of watch making, coming from another world.  A complex display of time, unusual dimensions, sharp design. Lionel Ladoire is literally sweeping aside the codes of traditional watch making, and he is arousing a new emotion in watch making, likened to the creation of Haute Couture.



LINDE WERDELIN

Launched in 2006 by Morten Linde and Jorn Werdelin, LINDE WERDELIN watches and clip-on instruments have redefined the world of luxury sports watches by bringing together the very best of Swiss watch making and craftsmanship combined with innovative Danish design and avant-garde technology. By combining both analogue and digital technologies, LINDE WERDELIN, produces and manufactures the ultimate sports watches and precision instruments (The Rock & The Reef) that securely clip on top of the watch to enhance the sporting experience whether in the mountains or underwater. LINDE WERDELIN specialises in producing small watch series between 22 and 222 for each model.

LINDE WERDELIN introduces a new watch series to its current collection, the 3-Timer. The new model, is a fine and elegant timepiece that encompasses all the signature details of the LW watches and can be set to show three different time zones, using the GMT hand and the newly added bidirectional 24-hour bezel. As the most refined of LINDE WERDELIN watches, every part of the 3-Timer case is ‘toned down’ to ensure legibility and facilitate keeping track of the three time zones. Starting from the pattern of the dial to the thinner hands and smaller indexes, bearing the minimum luminous material possible, all 3-Timer features are designed to have a softening effect to the eye.

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LOUIS CHEVROLET

The spirit and values of Louis Chevrolet, the legendary Swiss-born racing driver and automobile constructor, have inspired the eponymous watches to which brand-founders André and Josette Saunier are passionately committed. All technical and design aspects of their Frontenac limited edition collection are handled in the Louis Chevrolet workshops, where nearly all the components are produced and the movements are decorated. The manufacturing process ends with final assembly and quality-control. Such an approach gives the brand optimum flexibility and ensures it can meet all its clients' demands for top-quality watches – ranging from limited series to unique timepieces.



LOUIS MOINET

Louis Moinet are among today's most creative watchmakers.  Louis Moinet concentrate solely on making mechanical watches in limited editions for an exclusive clientele – pursuing the approach of founder Louis Moinet (1768–1853), the master watchmaker whose clients included Napoleon Bonaparte.

This tourbillon presents a meteorite from the planet Mars, finely inlaid into a hand-engraved dial and adorned with an astrolabe-type appliqué, serving as a reminder of the ties between man and the cosmos. This is a world first, since no stone from Mars had ever yet been used in watchmaking. The case of this unique model is crafted from 18-carat white gold set with 56 baguette-cut Top Wesselton VVS diamonds totalling 3.46 carats.

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MARVIN WATCH C° 1850

New Time New Codes. The Marvin Watch Company is a fine Swiss watch making brand founded in 1850, whose central beliefs have never been so true as they are today: passion, audacity, ethical approach and humor. After distinguishing itself in more than 70 countries, not only for the quality of its movements but its modern, inventive and elegant aesthetics, Marvin is again brushing aside watch making codes, under a team of professionals driven by its image. Marvin enjoys an outstanding reputation for beautiful, mechanical and quartz, reliable and precise watches – rich in history and style. Always exceed expectations.

In tribute to its 160th anniversary, Marvin has derived creative inspiration from the powerful soul of its timeless watchmaking codes. This elegant, understated and modern timepiece exalts the pleasure of wearing a high-quality watch enriched with horological expertise and yet reasonably priced – because elegance is beyond price! The Malton line is rooted in the brand's rich history, since the name was registered in 1906 and used in
particular for an exclusive Malton collection that earned international
fame.




METAL

The purest expression of Metal.ch style rounded off in this collection. Intensity of the lines, innvoation and richness of the style, technique allied to the highest quality of craftmanship. An intreprid spirit lies within this collection more driven to the male clientele passionate about METAL.CH, although some women could be captivated as well! Rotating bezel in ceramic engraved with a tachometric scale turn this model into a genuine techonological tool.

 

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PIERRE DE ROCHE

As designers and manufacturers of unique movements, Pierre DeRoche cultivate rarity. .

PIERRE DEROCHE has created the first movement able to house six retrograde seconds mechanisms. While this complication has been introduced to provide an element of fun, it also reveals a totally original approach: all the retrograde hands in this model are driven by gears rather than cams and, thanks to a strip-spring that has replaced the classical balance-spring system, return to their initial positions after “passing on the baton” to the next retrograde hand. This innovation facilitates adjustment and enhances shock resistance.



QUINTING

At the end of the twentieth century, 5 engineers decided to embark on the craziest adventure ever seen in the watch making world : to create a completely transparent watch. The idea of dfesigning a watch that was completely see-through has occupied the greatest minds in the watchmaking profession for more than 100 years.

The Transparency has a counter balancing forces movement which permits to compensate the effects of rough gestures. Besides the technical advantage brought by this revolutionary process, this movement also permits to bring a real animation to the design, like for example the model Advance, one of the last news of Quinting in 2008. The Transparency is like all the other models of Quinting a great complication watch which is composed of 186 pieces. Its movement contains 9 layers of sapphires perfectly parallel, 4 are mobiles and 5 are stationary. It is waterproof until 50 meters depth. The watch is composed of metalized sapphires and has an anti-reflection treatment.The case back and the movement are engraved with an individual serial number. The unique transparent movement is patented as well as the counter balancing forces movement.

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REBELLION TIMEPIECES

The Predator - REBELLION’s first watch clothed in a round case. In collaboration with award-winning designer Eric Giroud, REBELLION has conceived and developed the Predator in the same spirit as the rest of their collection: with authenticity, refined design, and uncompromising quality and performance.

Another exclusivity of this model: the case, which is constructed in a complex sandwich of superimposed layers allowing considerable personalisation according to owner's taste. The Predator is available in several case materials: red gold, red gold/ceramic, steel, steel/ceramic and red gold/steel. The Predator is also available in a time-only version with three hands and date, as well as a mono-pusher chronograph. An exclusive watch for those with a passion for speed Despite its relatively classical shape, the Predator perfectly encompasses the passion of REBELLION 's founders for endurance car racing. A limited edition of 24 watches, called the LM24, will be launched at the Le Mans 24 hours in 2010, and the watches will be worn by the drivers during the race.



ROBERT & FILS 1630

Robert & Fils 1630 enjoy what is probably the longest watchmaking tradition in the world. Abram Robert was one of the first watchmakers in Swiss history.

After having introduced, in 2009, a series of five unique timepieces in the collection “Au fil de l’eau,” Robert & Fils 1630 continues the thematic presentation with a series of three unique pieces based on bird scenes. Each timekeeper is equipped with a historical movement and a dial in 18K gold decorated with a hand-painted motif using the artisanal technique of grand feu enamelling.Exclusive, all the models share a common design that evokes a bird living near the water. The three birds featured in this collection are the golden oriole, kingfisher, and the duck. On the back of each unique piece is a description with the hand-engraved name of the watch.


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SAINT HONORÉ PARIS

For over a century, SAINT HONORE has been synonymous with the world-famous “Paris-Style”, and have created collections of unrivalled design.

Remaining loyal to its tradition of innovation, SAINT HONORE shows off new technical prowess with the latest development in its flagship model, the Haussman Magnum. It is more than just simply an automatic version: it brings a new dimension to telling the time. Like real racing cars, the beauty allows its engine to be seen: an ETA 2824 automatic movement specially crafted for SAINT HONORE. Furthermore, everything in this piece has been designed to place it in the spotlight. The traditional bezel has been discarded and is now incorporated into the glass. The glass with 6 visible screws drilled into it, a signature of the Haussman Magnum line, offers a view from above of the skeleton dial with an even more beautiful effect: daring cut-outs for the figures, variation in levels, and spectacular treatments for the date window and the hands. Haussman Magnum Automatic: a fusion of power and emotion….the greatest luxury for those who wear it..



SNYPER

As the cradle of the finest watchmaking firms, Switzerland has seen the birth of the most prestigious brands. The reputations of these companies is public knowledge. Now Snyper have joined them, representing the latest in horological innovation. The brand’s philosophy and designs offer a challenge to established codes. Snyper have signalled their arrival by unveiling a unique, top quality, Swiss-made timepiece – a high-end exclusive sports watch with an aggressive look, produced in a limited edition. Snypermania is set to hit the Geneva Time Exhibition!

 

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SWISS KUBIK

SwissKubiK is a watch-winder, with a resolutely modern, innovative design, housed within a minimalist 10cm cube devoted to the continuous rewinding of automatic mechanical timepieces. SwissKubiK watch-winders can also be personalized or designed specifically for antique watches or collection timepieces.

SwissKubiK innovates thanks to the new watch winder for automatic mechanical timepieces designed and produced in Geneva. This new Swiss brand puts its know-how and experience at the disposal of quality watchmaking with the creation of this accessory which will very soon become essential to every connoisseur in mechanical watch. Unique, it is the first watch winder to be entirely designed and conceived in Geneva, world-cradle of the luxury watch industry. This accessory combines all assets so as to make it essential for every respectful owner of automatic watches.



TEMPVS COMPVTARE

Preserving the ecosystem is a challenge we can no longer ignore. To Tempvs Compvtare, watches are an ideal vehicle for increasing public awareness of this crucial issue: the sands of time are running out, and we must act now to save our common environment. The brand seeks to redefine the values of luxury by adopting an eco-active approach, with each Tempvs Compvtare edition supporting an association actively involved in the defence of species which are under threat yet essential to our own survival.

This is the first Shark Saving Watch ever, an automatic diving chronograph equipped with an ETA Valjoux 7750. The Shark Watcher is devoted to its environment; its hydrodynamics shapes are highly inspired from the underwater universe.

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VALBRAY

"The truth about a man can be found in what he has to hide" as André Malraux once said. That sums up the intriguing message conveyed by Côme de Valbray and his team with humour, conviction, impertinence and a concern for detailed perfection. Côme de Valbray – a graduate of Lausanne's Ecole Polytechnique Fédérale – is passionate about achieving the right balance between technical rigour and aesthetic purity. After a wealth of experience in the watchmaking industry, he founded his own brand in 2009. Valbray watches boast a revolutionary double-display mechanism, the product of highly demanding work by gifted professionals; its taut, sensuous outlines blend contemporary style with uncompromising audacity, energy and elegance.



VOLNA

More than just a brand, Volna is a breakthrough concept in the world of watchmaking, blending the heritage of the Soviet watch industry with all that's best about modern Swiss watchmaking. This young firm, founded in 2006, has rapidly made its mark through its bold, creative approach and expert use of complex materials like Grade 5 Titanium. Volna's unconventional approach provides an offbeat vision of watchmaking: timepieces that can lay twin claim to an atypical historical heritage – the Soviet submarine fleet – and sophisticated, highly contemporary design.

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ZANDIDOUST

After working for the most prestigious Swiss watch-making companies for many years, Ali Zandidoust created his own brand in 1991. His creations are the fruit of oriental inspiration combined with the meticulousness and precision of Swiss watches. Ali Zandidoust never works from drawings or sketches. The creative process invariably starts with no more than a rough piece of metal, which he manually sculpts from the block using a file, saw and chisel. The uniqueness of the curves and forms makes it impossible for his creations to be reproduced on an industrial scale, even with the use of modern equipment. There is no substitute for the handiwork of a craftsman. It is for this reason that only a limited edition of each item is produced.




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