BaselWorld Products

The first trends

Encouraged by the early signs of recovery in November and December, Swiss watchmakers and jewellers, along with their suppliers, are putting the finishing touches to the latest creations they will be presenting at BASELWORLD, the sector’s largest international event, from March 18 to 25. With the Show just a few weeks away, they are offering us a glimpse of this year’s emerging trends.

The new paradigms of luxury

The financial crisis that rocked the world’s economy has resulted in a refocusing of consumer demand on unpretentious, classic models that can be worn on all occasions. For example, ladies’ watches, distinctly smaller than in the past, display a refined, ultra-feminine elegance, while men’s timepieces, following several years of ever-increasing dimensions, appear to have stabilised around 42 to 44 mm in diameter with relatively flat cases. Rather than present a plethora of complications, watch companies have concentrated on practicality, legibility and comfort. We see this in the use of titanium, which is very light and highly resistant to corrosion and which has become a common watchmaking material, as has ceramic, previously reserved for rather exclusive models. As far as displays are concerned, disc systems feature some very original configurations, while digital functions have returned to centre stage, coupled with mechanical or quartz movements.

When understatement goes hand in hand with innovation

While designs have been refined, innovation is more evident than ever. This is apparent in the considerable attention paid to the materials and finishing – especially PVD and galvanic processes – on this year’s models. Sapphire crystals have found new applications as dials and case middles, while composite (high-tech) materials appear in original alloys. Still much in vogue, replicas of legendary models come with technical innovations, while remaining faithful to their original vintage spirit.

This year, prestige complications like repeaters, tourbillons and calendars – annual or perpetual – are most likely to be found in upmarket models, more often than not in 18K white or pink gold cases, confirming the trend of the past few years.

Positive prospects for BASELWORLD 2010

After a year of negative growth – Swiss watch exports in 2009 reached CHF 13.2 billion, down 22.3% on 2008 – encouraging signs of recovery were registered at the end of the year, with November and December recording a single-digit drop for the first time.

The Swiss Exhibitors are confident that this is an indication of a long-term recovery in the watch industry and look forward to seeing you at the Show between March 18 and 25!

BREITLING Avenger Seawolf Chrono Blacksteel Black, robust and highly technical. The most remarkable feature of the Avenger Seawolf Chrono Blacksteel, its magnetic pushpiece system, is hidden inside its case. With this exclusive, patented device, the watch can be activated through the metal case without any direct mechanical contact. As most chronographs cannot be used when diving, this device means that the Avenger Seawolf Chrono is the only instrument of its kind that is totally water-resistant and functional to a record depth of 1,000 metres. Its SuperQuartz movement – another exclusive Breitling creation – guarantees a precision ten times greater than ordinary quartz movements; it measures times to 1/10th of a second and indicates intermediary times. Limited series of 2,000.

Concord C1 Code   Logical, methodical and highly efficient, the new C1 Code chronograph is making a statement. The algebraic formula above the dial expresses the structural complexity of the case and partially covers the impressive sapphire crystal. The equations are fitted around the various counters, an unequivocal assertion that Concord watches are supreme pieces of engineering.

DE GRISOGONO Instrumento Grande Chrono Five years after its widely-acclaimed launching, the Instrumento Grande has returned in a chronograph version. And what a chronograph! While the case has retained its original size and its emblematic opening on the side of the case at 9 o’clock to provide a novel view of the movement, the dial shows an exuberance of creativity. The retrograde date, in twin arcs, displays unbridled dynamism, sublimated by a skilful interplay of tinted and non-tinted glass to enable the date to be read at first glance. The chronograph counters offer a fascinating and cleverly orchestrated combination of shapes and sizes, from the square at 9 o’clock to the oversized circle at 6 to the more classic circle at 12.

Dewitt Twenty-8-Eight In a move towards greater classicism, DeWitt’s emblematic imperial columns, the brand’s veritable signature, have become more discreet in its new Twenty-8-Eight collection; the pink gold case is also finer than in the past. A truly harmonious creation that reveals a magnificent flambé zone and delicate radiating pattern under its velvety black dial. With DeWitt, tradition is never far away: the Twenty-8-Eight pays tribute to the 28 Floréal, the day on which the Senate of Republican France proclaimed Napoleon Bonaparte – Jérôme DeWitt’s illustrious ancestor – as “Emperor of the French people”. It can hardly be a coincidence that the Twenty-8-Eight was designed on … 28 August! Limited edition of 500.

DOXA Grafic Open Heart The ambassadress of contemporary design since 1957, the Grafic from Doxa and its lines of absolute purity accompanied the “modern movement” that shaped the aesthetics of the 20th century. The round aperture at 12 o’clock shows that Doxa will always keep abreast of history.

ETERNA Madison Eight-Days Eterna has decided to reaffirm its long-standing tradition of technical originality at Baselworld this year with the Madison Eight-Days. Housing the hand-wound Eterna 3510 movement fitted with the new Eterna Spherodrive device – a new kind of barrel rotating on ball-bearings –, this masculine watch illustrates the exceptional qualities of its manufactory-made movement: for example, the eight-day power reserve.

FRANC VILA FVt28 Jumping Hours Ivy Edition Franc Vila’s first ladies’ watch, the Fvt28 Jumping Hours “Ivy Edition”, is proof that the brand has more than met the challenge it set itself: to create a genuine ultra-feminine timepiece. The self-winding movement with a jumping hours function and the case in DieHard Extreme steel with a setting of 387 or 91 diamonds are a dazzlingly successful response to the challenge. Limited edition of 88 pieces.

Glycine Airman F 104 Regulateur – evolution of the pilot watch The first generation of the F 104 which came on the market in 2001 already had a strong association with flying – its appearance was reminiscent of the cockpit display in an aircraft. But the F 104 is now also available as a genuine pilot watch with corresponding functions. The second time zone can be seen on the rotating bezel with its 24-hour display. However, you only recognize features of the original when you take a closer look at the Airman F 104 Regulateur. At the latest when you notice the antique crown or the flexible, conspicuous lugs, it becomes clear that this watch has to be an F 104. As a regulator – hour, minute and second displays run separately – the watch immediately attracts attention. Experts may be baffled by the particular arrangement of the hands. Here, the 24 hours are displayed from the centre in accordance with the requirements of a pilot's watch. Classic regulators, on the other hand, show the minutes from the central position. The Airman F 104 Regulateur has the minute function placed at the top at the midnight position and the second function below at the midday position. A further eyecatching feature is the luminous hour hand with red tip.

HAMILTON Pulsomatic Forty years after revolutionising the world of watchmaking by inventing the first digital watch, Hamilton is opening the festivities of this anniversary with the launch of a new Hamilton Pulsomatic, equipped for the occasion with automatic technology. With its science-fiction design, a case inspired by space-age televisions, and a liquid crystal screen powered by an innovative automatic movement, the 120-day power reserve H1970 movement, today’s Pulsomatic clearly stands on equal terms with its illustrious forerunner, considered to be the first computer ever worn on the wrist.

HARRY WINSTON Project Z6 Featuring a zalium case – a material used exclusively in watchmaking by Harry Winston – Project Z6 announces the arrival of a new complication in the collection: a 24-hour alarm on a hand-wound movement specially developed for this timepiece and exclusive to Harry Winston. Adjusted by the crown, the striking-mechanism for the alarm is activated by a trigger at 4 o’clock. The hammer, which is fixed to the case, can be admired through an opening on the dial, while the monobloc bell is crafted from one rectangular piece, resulting in better sound amplification. The double barrels guarantee a 72-hour power reserve and ensure the complication will not disrupt the movement timekeeping. The two barrels can be wound at the same time, for added convenience. This series is limited to 300.

MAITRES DU TEMPS Chapter One Featuring an original combination of complications, the first timepiece from Maîtres du Temps is the work of Christophe Claret and Peter Speake-Marin. This model boasts a tourbillon, a mono-pusher  chronograph, a retrograde date, a retrograde GMT and two distinctive rollers, one at 6 o’clock and the other at 12, indicating respectively the days of the week and the phases of the moon.

MAURICE LACROIX Pontos Décentrique Phases de Lune A combination of mechanics and architecture, the Pontos Décentrique Phases de Lune liberates time from orthodoxy. In a theatre of bold innovations, the first scene is acted out at 10 o’clock on an off-centre dial, where a new and unique single hand tracks the minutes, while the dragging hours appear at a more leisurely pace on a disk. In the second scene, two superposed disks at 4 o’clock show the phases of the moon and indicate day and night. The final scene, perhaps the grandest of them all, takes place at 6 o’clock: the date is clearly shown in a metallised sapphire crystal window on a disk whose patented return system has been specially developed in-house. Series limited to 500.

Movado Movado master Meticulously engineered. Masterfully refined. Movado is proud to premiere a heroic new pinnacle collection for men and women: Movado Master™. With its dynamic design boldly rooted in the strong industrial and architectural expressions of the Bauhaus movement, the muscular Movado Master™ propels the powerful purity of the iconic Museum dial in a daring new direction. Machined in solid stainless steel, the angular tonneau-shaped case with screw-down crown features a gear-edge black sapphire or double-row diamond-set bezel, and raised door-style hinges. Functioning as attachments for Movado Master’s rubber deployment strap, the flexing hinges provide striking architectural definition as well as wrist-conforming comfort. Movado Master’s striking asymmetric matte black or white dial with custom-designed luminescent hands, explores and expands the circle-within-a-circle motif of the iconic Museum dial, adding new dimension and texture. The dot at 12 o’clock, with a new convex center, resembles a push-button. A new off-center inner circle is textured with a dot-grid pattern, mimicking the texture of the black strap, or pavé set with diamonds. Around it, new luminescent or diamond-set indices, graduated in length, delineate the hours. The 44mm men’s model, with fine Swiss automatic movement, custom-designed black “M” rotor, and exhibition case-back, is water resistant to 30 ATM. Offering several diamond-set case and dial options, the 34mm women’s model is quartz-precise and water resistant to 30 ATM unset, or to 5 ATM when set with diamonds.

RADO r5.5 Automatic Already the winner of a prestigious prize, the r5.5 collection has been enlarged with a new automatic model, a natural development of the collaboration between Rado and the British designer Jasper Morrison based on their shared passion for high-tech ceramics. With the characteristic square shape of its dial, the r5.5 is an immediate eye-catcher. The collection’s name comes from the radius of the dial, whose matt black colour offers striking contrasts with the white luminescent hands and hourmarkers. Not forgetting the perfect synthesis between the ceramic case and the bracelet with its different-sized links that makes the watch fit so snugly round the wrist.

Raymond Weil Nabucco VA, Pensiero The RAYMOND WEIL nabucco range, renowned for its stylish design, now boasts a new addition in titanium. The nabucco Va, Pensiero – named after the famous Verdi chorus – exudes the same power and nobility as the great Italian composer’s opera. With its sober 46mm-diameter case, and round bezel with tachometric scale set into the titanium, it is exceptionally resilient and water-resistant. Three subdials (30 minutes at 3 o’clock, 12 hours at 6 and small seconds at 9), along with a date-window at 4:30, are set in grey on a central zone featuring three screws for optimal time-reading, and harmoniously integrated indexes highlighted in luminiscent anthracite. The aesthetics of the nabucco Va, Pensiero again reflect RAYMOND WEIL's gift for audacious design, while its mechanical prowess will delight connoisseurs of luxury watchmaking: an ETA 7753 tri-compax movement, with automatic winding and 28,800 vibrations per hour, ensures the precision and reliability of this masculine chronograph which, with its screwed-down push-pieces, crown and case-back, is waterproof to a depth of 660ft (20 bars/atm). The timepiece’s elegant design is underscored by a saddle-stitched crocodylus niloticus leather strap with double push-piece security. Stylish, powerful and elegant… let the nabucco Va, Pensiero spirit you away on the wings of freedom!

TISSOT Sailing Touch Gent The functionality and design of the Tissot Sailing Touch Gent equip this timepiece to weather any storm with style. Meteorological forecasting ability, a tide-calculator and a regatta countdown captain the extensive list of touch-activated functions. Innovative design details reflect the watch’s maritime theme and also enable it to withstand the pressures of active lifestyles on land and at sea. By lightly touching the unique tactile crystal, wearers can navigate their way easily and quickly to diverse functionality. This includes a useful tool for ascertaining weather patterns, integrating a histogramme to show conditions of the preceding six hours, plus the facility to measure relative pressure with the predicted tendency being shown by the hands. A tide calculator responds to the challenges of ocean sailing, with the hands showing the evolution of the tide at the port of destination. The Tissot Sailing Touch Gent is even ready to compete in regattas, with a special countdown for the crucial ten minutes leading up to the start, using practical sonic beeps combined with the digital display. Completing the spectrum of instruments are a device to measure speed over distance, a compass, two alarms, two time zones, a perpetual calendar and a backlight.

VICTORINOX Dive Master 500 Timing comes together with the world of diving in this new Dive Master 500, with its highly original chronograph with a central minutes and seconds display. Water-resistant to 500 metres, it is both robust and functional. It has excellent legibility thanks to its luminescent hands, hourmarkers and numerals, on the dial and on the unidirectional rotating bezel, and is equipped with a truly sporty Black Ice PVD TM case. A contemporary watch par excellence, this new model from Victorinox Swiss Army is available in black, red or orange.

ZENITH ELITE 681 ULTRA THIN This classically handsome model features a new ultra-thin 40mm-diameter case housing the ideally suited extra-slim (3.81 mm) Elite 681 self-winding calibre, beating at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) and ensuring a 50-hour power reserve. The case comes in a choice of 18-carat rose gold or stainless steel, while the sapphire crystal exhibition back provides a fascinating view of the movement with its tungsten oscillating weight adorned with a “Côtes de Genève” pattern. The domed sapphire watch glass is glareproofed on both sides to enhance readability of the facetted hour-markers, sword-shaped hour and minutes hands as well as small seconds at 9 o’clock. This admirably restrained dial is available in silver, black, slate-grey sunray or white-lacquered versions, as well as three limited editions (brown sunray, silver sunray with diamond hour-markers and black sunray with diamond hour-markers). Clearly drawing on the brand’s heritage of mechanical movements and pure, uncluttered designs, the Elite 681 Ultra Thin is fitted with a black or brown alligator strap that is rubber-lined to enhance wearer comfort and equipped with an 18-carat rose gold or stainless steel pin buckle. It provides eloquent confirmation that understated elegance and aesthetic purity are truly timeless values.