Cover Story

Armin Storm

Tradion and Innovation

Amongst watch aficionados, Armin Strom's name is practically synonymous with the highest level of hand-made skeletons and watch engraving. An exclusive series of skeleton watches is now being created at new factory premises in Biel, under the watchful eye of the grand master. And of course on the basis of decades of tradition....and vision...and foresight!

These thoughts were fleeting through features editor Karishma Karer’s mind as she embarked upon  a novel experience of visiting the new factory of the young-at-heart watchmaking firm. Karer was pleased to hear that the major specialist of skeletonization had take a giant stride into the big league. From her conversations with Grand master Armin Strom, CEO Serge Michel, movement designer Claude Greisler, she inferred that the Company has itself into the realms of integrated watch manufactures offering their own in-house movements.

The new factory has state-of-the-art equipment that it needs to grow into an impressive manufacture. The lower floors of the factory are outfitted with ultra-modern machinery, purchased for producing every element of a timepiece movement, with the exception of jewels and springs.

As he takes visitors around the new facilities, the pride and joy is evident in the eyes of Greisler, a highly-qualified specialist, who has created an aesthetic, conventional and reliable movement. Besides, he managed to successfully combine his main activity with that of a production manager, enjoying the work with the new computer-controlled machinery, as well as technicians in charge of running it.

Strom also plays an active role by visiting the factory four times a week in order to skeletonize by hand the movements, intended for the other models, produced by the company. He is quite passionate about training young watchmakers and passing on his experience. These young specialists also complete such works as engraving, perlage, and Cotes de Geneve pattern. The room next to theirs has a novel highly-advanced galvanic center, which was acquired for Armin Strom to adorn the movements with gold and rhodium finishing, being independent of suppliers. The final link in the production chain is placed in the last office on the ground floor: here young watchmakers, from Glashutte and Finland, carry out the entire assembly process of the movement.

The new in-house manufactured Caliber ARM09 is composed of 146 individual parts, embracing 34 gem-stones. As Watches.InfoNIAC.com found out, it uses no other movements as its base: all the elements are produced in Armin Strom’s Biel factory. Constituting the exception are the springs, jewels and escapement. Sculptured in solid gold, these elements come from Precision Engineering in Schaffhausen.
At the same time, a collection is being launched under the new "Armin by Armin Strom" label, which is geared to modern tastes and has a technical orientation.

Armin Strom AG was founded in 2006 and is based in the watch-making centre of Biel. The main investor is the well-known Burgdorf industrialist, Willy Michel. At work is a motivated crew whose average age is much lower than the norm for the industry. Targeted investment in state-of-the-art production facilities has allowed the young firm to be increasingly independent of suppliers. The aim is to exist as an actual manufacturer and to make watch movements entirely developed by the company. The company's plans are long term – it is aware that it takes several years to build up a reputable brand and a highly regarded, quality production and design department.

The firm offers a watch collection under the "Armin Strom" brand whose movements are enhanced with various levels of hand engraving or partial skeletons, up to a fully hand-made skeleton watch. Understatement is in demand nowadays, which is why the skeleton movement is often only visible on the back. The watches are meticulously executed; Armin Strom has always been uncompromising where quality is concerned.

The newly launched label is called "Armin by Armin Strom", with the emphasis on proprietary manufacture. However, it also represents the modern style of movement embellishment, without neglecting important traditional values. A young, superbly trained and highly motivated team creates new collections emphasising a modern, technical image. "We intentionally try to blend tradition with new, innovative methods," explains Serge Michel, Managing Director of Armin Strom AG. "And provision is being made for transfer of know-how – Armin Strom himself trains the junior watch-makers in-house."

The first step on this path was taken in 2008, with introduction of the regulator in the Four Elements models, under the new "Armin by Armin Strom" label. Based on a standard movement, the complete construction of a regulator with an off-centre arrangement of seconds, minutes and hours, as well as a retrograde date display, was developed and produced "in-house" for the range, all with a modern appearance, including a striking polished or brushed titanium casing. The manual winding movements are beautifully engraved – the name Armin Strom is an obligation - and can be admired through the glass back.

"We still have a few tricks up our sleeve," says young watch maker – constructor Claude Greisler who is responsible for designing new models. "Our own movement has reached a decisive stage, but it will be some time before we can achieve final introduction and subsequent mass production."

This year, ARMIN STROM moved into its new business premises in Biel and now the brand is already ready to launch its first calibre, under the ARMIN by ARMIN STROM label, on 17 November 2009, thus becoming an authentic Bienne watch manufacture. The ARM09 (ArminReserveMarche09), as the calibre is known, has emerged in a relatively short time as a result of dynamic teamwork and total motivation.

As far as CEO Serge Michel is concerned, a proprietary movement lays an even firmer foundation for an exciting future. "Of course this step is the fulfilment of a dream for us, but it also ensures our independence in other areas."

Designer Claude Greisler was brought into the team to build the calibre and develop the manufacturing side of the business 3 years ago. Greisler set about his task with a group of precision engineers, watchmakers and a hand engraver and is now proud to present the finished movement.

ARMIN by ARMIN STROM/ARM09
A manual winding calibre, with an 8-day power reserve, which focuses on perfection of technology and craftsmanship, to create a distinctive design.

The movement provides a great insight into the mechanism, has a power reserve display and meets the most demanding quality expectations. Watch lovers are sure to be immediately struck by the shape of the cogs. "Why make plain cogs? We implemented an idea which gives us an almost endless range of design options!" says Claude Greisler. After a close look at the movement, it becomes clear that great emphasis is also placed on the watch-making tradition, as well as innovative features. Finishing, for example, is top of the range and the technical specifications speak for themselves.

Skeletonising
Customers often made special requests, on the basis of which highly personalised "made-to-measure" watches were created. Strom delivered every watch personally, anywhere in the world. "I devote weeks of work to my timepieces, so I can't just pack them into a box and hand them over to the postal service," was Strom's justification for the expensive delivery process. The watch industry has also been happy to utilise Armin Strom's unique abilities. He has made small ranges with skeletonised movements for various manufacturers.

With great care and finesse, the skeletoniser removes all the superfluous parts of a watch movement. Parts of bridges and plates are removed using a fretsaw, after which files and scrapers are used to work the seams and wheels. These filed edges are then angled to create a fine surface again. The parts are then hand engraved and gold or rhodium plated. "There is no apprenticeship for this technique, you have to teach yourself. Watchmaking is a job for patient people, and only the most patient will dare to tackle skeletonisation," explains Armin Strom. He is now training juniors himself, so that his knowledge is preserved for now.

Blue Chip
Blue Chip – a solid value. It isn’t only the name of this model series that conveys power and grandeur. The eye-catching flutes in the solid 46,50  mm stainless steel case lend the watch a unique presence. This model series offers a modern chronograph with date at 9 o’clock, an automatic movement with power reserve, a traditional automatic watch and a model with hand winding. The last two offer a clear view of the partially skeletonized movement and therewith grant maximum authenticity. In every design, the powerful movement has been hand engraved and is visible through the transparent case back. All versions are also available in 18ct rose gold with or without baguette diamonds.

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